Cooking latkes on safari: An unexpected lesson in Jewish connection

By Tina Wasserman

Wherever you go, there’s always someone Jewish

You’re never alone, when you say you’re a Jew

So when you’re not home, and you’re somewhere kind of…

“new-ish”

The odds are, don’t look far, ’cause they’re Jewish too

–Words and music by Larry Milder, 2001

I was in Africa for most of December and all of Hanukkah. I didn’t miss some of the rituals, and my eight nights of gifts were lions and giraffes and gazelles and hippos, to name a few. But something happened — and something changed in me.

When I heard the news about the killing of Jews on Bondi Beach during a Hanukkah celebration, I was devastated. As president of Dallas AJC, I spend my days fighting antisemitism, but this targeted massacre was too much.

At the time, I was staying at a lodge while on safari in Kenya and felt disconnected from my heritage, so I went into the kitchen and asked the head chef if he could do me a favor:

Could I teach him how to make latkes? 

He would have a new recipe for an amuse-bouche, and I would be able to feed my soul and comfort my sadness. He immediately said yes, and I sobbed all the way back to my room to change my clothes.

I made some latkes, grated by hand, and the smell that permeated the air from the potatoes and onions frying in oil was not offensive but comforting. I grinned, wondering what the game on the afternoon’s safari would think. Would they think I was a new kind of prey? Delicious but different?!

When we were all done, I thanked him, slightly choked up, and told him that I knew he wouldn’t understand the word, but that he had performed a mitzvah. He responded with a smile and said he knew the word, for he was a Sabbath Keeper.

Sabbath Keepers combine traditional beliefs of the Maasai people with Abrahamic folklore. They circumcise their boys. They eat only lamb, beef and goat, and do not mix milk with meat. Their folklore mirrors some Old Testament biblical stories. Their ancestors were indigenous to South Sudan, Ethiopia and the Nile Valley, and they make up a large minority in the Maasai region of northwestern Kenya.

There isn’t any Kohanim DNA in them — but neither is there in me. Yet, to some extent, we are both Jewish. This Maasai chef was a warrior in my eyes and made me feel welcome, that I belonged, and hopeful about the longevity of the Jewish people for centuries to come — despite the hatred that is rising — no, already boiling — on the surface.

You’re never alone, when you say you’re a Jew

So when you’re not home, and you’re somewhere kind of…

“new-ish”

The odds are, don’t look far, ’cause they’re Jewish too

Please enjoy the following recipes I learned on my adventure. I also spent a day in Dubai and, of course, bought a Dubai chocolate bar — but my recipe is much better, if I say so myself. Enjoy.

Aubergine (Eggplant) Brownies

Adapted from Chefs Ben and Philip, Ol Donyo Lodge, Kenya

For many years I made a chocolate cake using jarred baby prunes, so imagine my amazement when my morning snack on the jeep in the middle of the savanna was this moist morsel made with eggplant! Don’t knock it until you try it — and it’s gluten-free to boot.

Ingredients:

• ½ pound unpeeled eggplant, diced into ½-inch cubes
• 1 teaspoon water
• ½ cup 72% dark chocolate, chopped or chocolate chips
• ¼ cup coconut oil or plain vegetable oil
• ½ cup pitted Medjool dates
• Pinch of salt
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract, optional
• 3 large eggs
• 1 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 cup almond flour (meal)

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Line an 8-by-8-inch square pan with parchment paper or spray with cooking spray. Set aside.
2. Place the diced eggplant in a 2-quart glass bowl with 1 teaspoon of water, cover with plastic wrap and microwave on high for 3–4 minutes, or until soft.
3. Drain any excess water and immediately add the chocolate, coconut oil, dates and salt. The hot eggplant will melt the chocolate and oil.
4. Using a hand blender or food processor, pulse until smooth. Cool.
5. When the mixture is no longer very hot, add eggs and baking powder and pulse until well combined.
6. Spread batter into the prepared pan and bake 15–20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.
7. Cool to room temperature and cut into 16 squares.
8. If desired, dust with confectioners’ sugar.

Yield: 16 brownies

Tina’s tidbits:

• The eggplant and its peel add cellulose, giving moisture and body.
• This recipe is gluten-free.
• Vanilla is a nod to Western palates; cinnamon could also be added.
• The brownie is delicate, so chocolate chips or raisins may sink during baking.

Hoisin Duck or Chicken Salad

Adapted from Chefs Ben and Philip, Ol Donyo Lodge, Kenya

You couldn’t convince me I was in the wilds of Africa when this dish was presented. All the vegetables were grown on Ol Donyo’s conservancy land. If you can find precooked duck that fits your dietary needs, use it; if not, boneless chicken thighs — or even moist chicken breasts — work beautifully.

Ingredients:

• 2 large carrots, finely shredded and cut into 3-inch lengths
• 5 scallions, thinly sliced into 3-inch strands
• ½ cucumber, sliced lengthwise, deseeded and thinly sliced crosswise
• ½ head iceberg or romaine lettuce, sliced crosswise into ½-inch strands
• 2 precooked duck breasts or chicken thighs, shredded
• Hoisin sauce, about ¼ cup, or to taste
• 1–2 tablespoons black and/or white sesame seeds, for garnish

Directions:

1. Combine most of the vegetables in a bowl, reserving some for garnish.
2. In a separate bowl, toss the poultry with enough hoisin to coat.
3. Scatter meat over the lettuce mixture and sprinkle with sesame seeds.
4. Toss at the table and serve.
5. Serves: 2–4 as a first course or light main

Tina’s tidbits:

• Cooked thighs mimic duck’s color and texture and stay moist.
• Chicken from soup shreds beautifully.
• A julienne-style shredding peeler works well here.

Polenta with Chard Puttanesca

Adapted from Chefs Ben and Philip, Ol Donyo Lodge, Kenya

Puttanesca is a very fast preparation because its origins came from the necessity to provide a late, quick meal after the street walkers finished work. When you’re in a five-star hotel in the middle of Africa, the chefs like to be creative.

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for garnishing
• 1 teaspoon fennel seeds
• 3 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
• 2/3 cup dry white wine
• 1 (14½-ounce) can diced tomatoes
• 2 tablespoons minced fresh oregano or 2 teaspoons dried
• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried
• ¼ teaspoon dried chili flakes, or to taste
• 1 tablespoon drained and chopped capers
• 1 teaspoon fine granulated sugar
• 1 bunch Swiss chard, tough stems removed and leaves roughly chopped
• 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas or cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
• ½ cup olives of your choice, halved
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• Polenta
• 1¼ cups quick-cooking polenta
• 2 teaspoons fine salt (not kosher salt)
• 3 tablespoons nutritional yeast

Directions:

1. Heat a 3-quart saucepan over high heat for 15 seconds. Add 1 tablespoon olive oil and heat for 10 seconds. Reduce heat to medium-high. Add fennel seeds and garlic and cook for 30 seconds, or until garlic is golden. Do not let it brown or it will become bitter.
2. Add white wine and simmer 2 minutes, then add tomatoes, herbs, chili flakes, capers and sugar.
3. Bring mixture to a boil, then add chard, stirring occasionally until wilted.
4. Stir in chickpeas and olives. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
5. To cook polenta, follow package directions if using less than the amount listed above.
6. If using the full amount, place 3½ cups water in a 3-quart saucepan. Add salt, nutritional yeast and remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil; whisk well.
7. Slowly pour in polenta, whisking constantly for 2 minutes until thickened. As water is absorbed, polenta may sputter, so be careful.
8. Remove from heat and check seasoning and consistency.
9. Divide polenta among four bowls and top with warm puttanesca. Drizzle with additional olive oil.

Serves: 4 or more, depending on whether served as an entrée or side

Tina’s tidbits:

• This dish comes together quickly, so all ingredients should be prepped in advance to prevent burning.
• Chef Ben used chickpeas because they were readily available; traditionally, cannellini beans would be used in Italy.
• The amount of polenta is generous. Leftovers can be chilled, cut into shapes and fried in olive oil or a butter–olive oil mixture.

Homemade Dubai Chocolate

No, Dubai is not in Africa, but I planned a 24-hour layover to break up the long flight and to try some real “Dubai chocolate.” It wasn’t great — I had it in the spice market, not a luxury hotel (I’ve been told Neuhaus has an excellent version). But this recipe is great, and I worked hard to make it easy despite its length. It’s quick to assemble and not hard to execute. It’s worth trying even if you just make the filling and keep it on hand for spoon-dipping.

Ingredients:

• 1¼ cups defrosted kataifi dough, chopped into ½-inch pieces
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• ¾ cup jarred pistachio cream
• 1 tablespoon tahini
• Pinch of salt
• ¼ teaspoon vanilla extract
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 8 ounces (about 11/3 cups) good-quality chocolate coating, chopped
• 2 ounces (about 1/3 cup) high-quality 72% dark chocolate, broken into squares or coarsely chopped
• Silicone candy molds, about 1 inch deep

Directions:

Yield: About 6–8 bars, 3–4 inches long

Tina’s tidbits:

• This recipe makes more filling than needed; once comfortable, you can increase the chocolate to make additional bars.
• These instructions temper the chocolate for a shiny finish.
• Using chocolate chips may result in a matte or grainy texture. If skipping tempering, use all coating chocolate (Signature brand at Tom Thumb works well).
• Leftover filling is excellent between cake layers or spooned over ice cream.
• Filling keeps well refrigerated; finished chocolate stays shiny when frozen.